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Advice needed - Quadplane and big props

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@Roby wrote:

Hi,

I’d like to try quadplane using Cube and big props setup like 27"-29".

Any advice for the start, procedure and settings (parameters, tuning)?

I intend to use FW 3.9.8 and manual tune the quad part.

I’m mainly concerned about the quad ESCs response with spool-up time, spinning props fast enough to follow ATT.DesRoll and Pitch.

I was searching in arducopter section to find some info, but almost everything is related to Autotune (aggr, filt etc).

Questions about filters:

Q_A_RAT_PIT_FILT and Q_A_RAT_RLL_FILT are 10Hz by default. Should I go dawn to 5? Or it only matters with q_autotune in dev fw?

Thanks.

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System time issues for uBlox 9 protocol (ZED-F9P)

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@tommyma1617 wrote:

I have some success using the ZED-F9P (Both ArduSimple and CSG shop module) for RTK navigation. However, I found that with ZED-F9P the ArduCopter no longer have the correct timestamp. Timestamp shows 1980 January for all the mission with the ZED-F9P module.

I found that, the time of the week is missing and cause this issue. Upon further investigation and some digging in the ArduCopter code, I found that in ardupilot/libraries/AP_GPS/AP_GPS_UBLOX.cpp the time_week get from the UBX-NAV-SOL message. Then, the time_week and time_week_ms was used to covert into the system time in AP_GPS. However, based on this document, the ZED-F9P is using UBX version 27.10 protocol (uBlox 9). In this new version of the protocol, the UBX-NAV-SOL is no longer generated with the module. I could not really find another source of week number in NAV group. Seems like uBlox finally did away with NAV-SOL message. Will uBlox 9 be supported for future version of the ArduPilot?

Currently, I am thinking about the work around. Since UBX-NAV-PVT provide UTC time in yyyy/mm/dd/h/m/s and time accuracy estimate in nano second, we can use the UTC time to calculate the week number and pass it to the time_week.

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How to get gps data on the odroid xu4(serial usb)

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@ahmetomer wrote:

hello,

I dont use marevick os. I’m using the ubuntu mate version for odroid xu4.

I want to make the odroid tweet with a gps location. I dont know how will i be able to read the mavlink data. Is there a guide for beginners

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About the mRobotics category

Building a new copter in SITL

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@Kaushik_ghosh wrote:

Hi, I am a newbie in using Ardupilot and SITL. I am unable to figure out how to build a new copter in SITL. I want to change the copter inertia, baselength and other parameters of the copter.

Thanks,
Kaushik

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How to interface new urdf quadrotor model with sitl

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@darshankt wrote:

I have created the new quadrotor urdf model, I wish to interface this model with sitl instead of the place of current iris model. I don’t know how to do that can any please guide me. I want work sitl with that created urdf model only. Guide me if anyone knows

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Crashed in Autotune in Copter 3.6 seems like ESC problem?

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@tecnic08 wrote:

My build is a hexacopter with Tarot 680 Pro frame
FC: Pixhawk 4 Aluminum Case
GPS: Holybro Neo M8N
Motor: Sunnysky V4008 KV380
ESC: T-Motor F35A-32bit 3-6S
Battery: 6S 16000 mAh

First flight was indoor, this flight I just want to check that my copter will be able to fly. It took off fine, everything went well. I’ve flown it in ALTHLD. There are no warning on any EKF. Vibration is fine too. It was a short flight. Just take off and hover. Everything is fine.

Crashed flight:
The second flight, I flew it outdoor to autotune. I took off in ALTHLD flew it for a while and switch to Loiter, flew it for a while. I felt that the copter yaw without my command, but it is before tuning, it is not that uncommon I guess and it is still controllable. So, I started the autotune. I set it to tune all 3 axis.

The copter stayed still after I switched to autotune, so I tried to nudge the roll stick to give some input. Then, the autotune started I think that it started to tune yaw axis (from what I felt and saw).

After a short while, copter started to hard roll, but it is in autotune. So, I am not sure whether it is because of the autotune or something is wrong. I didn’t do anything. After that, the copter made a very hard roll, lose a lot of altitude and slowly spin. I am pretty sure that there is something wrong here. I tried to bring it back and land, but the copter loses altitude fast. I push the throttle to the max but it doesn’t seems to help. The copter descended and crashed in a dry rice paddy, but did not suffer any damage. Not even a scratch on the props.

From the log:
After I viewed the log, I saw that CW and CCW motors PWM output are diverged into 2 groups. This should be from one or more motors are not properly leveled with others. After inspection on the copter and I can clearly see one of the motor is off-leveled. However, this shouldn’t causes the crash or a sudden hard roll. Some of my other copter has the same diverged PWM issue but it still flies nicely.

There is one weird thing though, motor 1 and 2 PWM diverged a lot near the crash causing the copter to spin. I don’t know why.

My question still lies: what causes the crash?
I can’t think of anything, but ESC or motors, but I have used a lot of the same model of motors in my previous built without any problem, but this is a new ESC that I wanted to tryout.

Any idea where should I look or try or any advice will be highly appreciated.

Telemetry log here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iIlTeLUivV2Ajv3YxPHxA4gTADvi0_Hk/view?usp=sharing

BIN log here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cF7wpdXy0tpc1X9BqqWGSu7pptKIQq15

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Hexa V - Is it possible?

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@tegwin wrote:

I recently noticed an addition to the frame types for Octo V and Octo H which is nice.
See here: http://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/connect-escs-and-motors.html#connect-escs-and-motors3


Is anyone aware of code to run a Hexa V or Hexa H?

I am trying to work out in my mind if you would get good control characteristics with a Hexa V versus a more conventional symmetrical hexa.

Anyone have any thoughts?

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Crash during landing

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@Mtobaya_Benedict wrote:

HI I AM A BEGINNER I NEED TO LEARN HOW TO CONTROL MY DRONE MANUAL I DON’T WONT TO GUESS THE SWITCH, I CONTROLLED MANUAL IT LAND SAFELY, NOW I WANT TO BE PERFECT ON MANUAL AND AUTO MODE,

i calibrated the radio controller, now i get the function of switch C, G, E, AND throttle, yaw/ roll switch .
My flight mode are as flows of Futaba 10j ,
1). @ switch C AUTO (Up) , E -has * STABILIZE <–> # RTL , G - Has * RTL <–># AUTO,
2). @ switch C ALTITUDE HOLD (CENTER) , E -has * STABILIZE <–> # RTL , G - Has * LOITER <–> #ALTITUDE HOLD,
3). @ switch C ALTITUDE HOLD( DOWN) , E -has * AUTO <–> # RTL , G - Has * STABILIZE <–> #ALTITUDE HOLD,

I NEED THE OPERATIONAL FUNCTION TO AVOID CRASH DURING LANDING, IS IT POSSIBLE TO SWITCH ON MANUAL MODES WHILE THE DRONE IS COMPLETE IT MISSION FOR LANDING. TO AVOID CRASHING,

THE T ELEMENTARY (GPS) WAS NOT ON OPEN SPACE, IT CALCULATED THE POSITION NOT THE PREVIOUS TAKE OFF POSITION IN RADIUS OF 2.5M . DURING AUTO FLIGHT.

YOUR ASSISTANCE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED AN ASSISTANCE,

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Simple Mode activation question

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@MerkaTony wrote:

Quick Question to the mindhive for some assistance.
I have read the wiki on simple and super simple and since i have never had much need of it in the past i had never used it, but at the moment i find my self in need for a very specific task for simple mode.
As the wiki say the copter on single mode will the vehicle will have it pitch and roll controls based on its heading during arm. Does this means that if i take off heading north(as the wiki example)and fly away and start heading east and after that activate simple mode, will my new pitch be north again? (essentialy my left roll will be the new pitch)
If yes, is there a way to configure that the simple mode take as heading, the one i had at the moment i activated the simple mode switch?
Thank you for all your replies.

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How to Store Your Drone Batteries

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@VirtualRC wrote:

Compared to the NiCd and NiMH, Lipo batteries are commonly used in the industry of radio control models on account of the higher performance, efficiency, friendly environment and so on. The rechargeable lipo widely applies to remote controlled cars, boats, aircraft, helicopters, unmanned aerial vehicles, and FPV, etc. Yeah, It’s no doubt that the lipo batteries is closely related to the remote control models and RC hobbyists. In our daily life, many behaviors we have are improper and may affect the lifespan of the battery as well as would result in the danger of burning and explosion. Therefore, it’d be better to correct the inappropriate behavior and learn more about the ways to maintain and storage lipo batteries.

1. Please read the instructions at first.

When purchase and get a box of RC kits or batteries, someone may put the batteries on the vehicle immediately and can’t wait to run the cars on the track. Practicing or racing the powerful RC vehicles can bring great passion and excitement to us, but neglecting something important (Yeah, it’s very easily neglected) may cause serious consequences. That is to read the instructions seriously. Don’t underestimate the significance of understanding the instructions that contain various noticed tips and methods to use and maintain the batteries, especially for the beginners.

2. Please take out the battery for a long time unused.

After practicing and running the vehicle, some guys may forget or don’t wanna take out the batteries and let it be in the machine all the time. Actually, this kind of habit is not appropriate and would cause great damage to the batteries. If it is not used for a long time, please take out the battery to prevent battery leakage and some other problems. And then put the batteries into the fireproof container such as a metal box for storage. Even though the appliance is turned off, the battery still has a small current output that leads to the over discharge of the battery, thus shortening the service life of the battery.

3. Please store the power pack between 40-60% charge.

After using the radio control models, some people may take the batteries that have no power totally out of the vehicle and then store them directly. There are also some guys who charge the full battery and decide to race tomorrow but unfortunately, it rains and they can’t run the car. So the battery is stored in full charge for a long time. All of these need to be corrected. Actually, it’s not suitable to store the lipo batteries in full charge or less than 40%. The most proper charge to store is between 40-60%. I have maintained my batteries in this way for more than 20 months and the lipo works as good as the initial status.

4. Please charge and store the batteries in an appropriate environment.

As a matter of fact, the temperature is the most important factor that has a great influence on the charge and discharge performance of the batteries. The electrochemical reaction on the electrode interface that is regarded as the heart of the battery is related to the temperature. If the temperature drops, so does the electrode’s reactivity rate. Given that the battery voltage remains constant and the discharge current drops, so does the battery’s power output. Therefore, in order to charge effectively, it’d be better to keep the temperature in the range of 25℃. Generally, the higher the temperature is, the bigger the charge rate would be and when it reaches up to or over 45℃, the performance of battery materials would be worse and the lifespan of the battery would be shortened.

According to the IEC standard, the battery ought to be stored in the temperature of 20±5℃ as well as the suitable humidity is (65±20)%. Generally speaking, the higher the storage temperature is, the higher the self-discharge rate of the battery would be and the lower the residual rate of the capacity would be. When the refrigerator is in the temperature between 0℃ and 10 ℃, it 'd be the best place to store the lipo battery.

The source from: https://www.ovonicshop.com/blogs/how-to/how-to-storage-lipo-batteries

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Fixed wing flight controller advice

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@stockton wrote:

I am currently building a 1.2 meter electric pusher flying wing which I would like to setup for auto flight and am looking for advice on what to use as a flight controller.
My radio is Frsky X9D and whatever receiver is required. Probably a X8R.
I am somewhat Raspberry Pi experienced and have a range available for use, ranging from a Raspberry Zero to a Raspberry 3B+. I have less arduino experience but do have a UNO available.
Can I use the hardware I have available or do I need to acquire an actual flight controller?

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Gstream and camera

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@Devel0per11 wrote:

I RUN THIS COMMAND ON MY RPI3
raspivid -t 0 -h 720 -w 1280 -fps 30 -hf -b 2000000 -o - | gst-launch-1.0 v4l2src device=/dev/video0 ! video/x-h264,width=1280,height=720,framerate=30/1 ! h264parse ! rtph264pay ! udpsink host=192.168.100.247 port=5600
and i get error
Setting pipeline to PAUSED …
Pipeline is live and does not need PREROLL …
Setting pipeline to PLAYING …
New clock: GstSystemClock
ERROR: from element /GstPipeline:pipeline0/GstV4l2Src:v4l2src0: Internal data stream error.
Additional debug info:
gstbasesrc.c(2950): gst_base_src_loop (): /GstPipeline:pipeline0/GstV4l2Src:v4l2src0:
streaming stopped, reason not-negotiated (-4)
Execution ended after 0:00:02.684326666
Setting pipeline to PAUSED …
Setting pipeline to READY …
Setting pipeline to NULL …
Freeing pipeline …

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Auto mode fails

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@ahmetomer wrote:

Hello people,

I tried the auto mode today. Manual works fine.
(ı changed my shafts so it can do reverse)
The problem is with the gps. It’s tone of work dur to the physical design but maybe the gps is in the boat (boat is plastic) and this is why it fails?

It is a 92cm skid steering 5kg boat.

I thought i did enough isolation but it stills takes water. I’ll epoxy the s out of it.

I think I broke my xl 4016 dc convener (it contacted the water). Odroid works fine, 3g connection is fine but when i connect via team viewer and open the webcam it fails(reboots).

I’ll test it when it gets dry.

I’ll post videos. Main problem with auto is it can’t turn (i test the boat in a very small pond(very small)) well and usually goes to the wrong direction.

Gps is buggy. Boat floats in the map.

Where do i do wrong.

I’ll post everything i can. I really need your help.

Everything works well.
Today i tested in non salt water.

The gps doesn’t lock that well and i dearly think this is the issue.

Once i make sure the isolation works well i will try it in a bigger place

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Writing firmware to all chibios boards?

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@wazoo22 wrote:

I’m pretty new at this, but if this issue is real, it has implications for anyone trying to write firmware with the Betaflight configurator.
when running the new Betaflight configurator today (8th), the board (matek F405 wing) connects fine in DFU mode, but when I reach the stage of loading the local hex file into the configurator to flash the board, it all comes to a screeching halt. I get a warning on a barber pole that says the configurator can’t be used to flash non-betaflight firmware.
Have we been given the boot here, or did I make a mistake of some sort?
Can’t see why they would care who uses their configurator. But if we are out of the club for some reason, a summary of how to load the hex directly would be appreciated. A lot.

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Unable to re-install MP on Win10 1803

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@Cirus wrote:

Hello,
after having uninstalled MP from my PC due to its maintenance, I failed to install it again.
I get the following error messages:
MPe1 MPe2 MPe3

The previous installation seems to be full uninstalled and I ran also CCleaner registry cleaner to remove any trace of it.

Any idea or an official MP installation cleaner?

Thanks.

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Which firmware please

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@MartyMcFly wrote:

Hello my ardu friend’s,which firmware should I upload to my cube 2.1 the APJ file or the hex file many thanks in advance

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Autonomous Autorotation - GSoC Project Blog

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@IAMMATT wrote:

Hi Everyone,

I am very pleased to announce that I have been fortunate enough to be accepted as a GSoC student for ArduPilot. My project will be to add autonomous autorotation support for traditional helicopters. This thread will be a blog for me to post my progress, interact with the community (getting your thoughts and opinions), and to help me gain an appreciation of the diversity of vehicles that this function needs to serve.

The primary goal of this project is to enable ArduCopter to detect power-train failures and subsequently perform an autorotation. My intention is to do this in a robust manor that maintains generality to all trad helis and doesn’t require excessive tuning. This approach will essentially involve building a generic H-V lookup table that can be scaled based on a few physical properties of the helicopter (e.g. blade mass, disc loading, etc). If you would like more info then you can read my project proposal by going here and clicking on the project title.

As this needs to be generically applicable to all helis it is unlikely to be flawless. One of the primary concerns is the lack of a reliable height estimation that could lead to the heli still having a hard landing. Therefore, this functionality will be developed to allow the pilot to still add control corrections when operating within VLOS. When operating BVLOS the functionality will still serve to ensure that minimal damage is occurred and will offer an additional level of redundancy to the system.

With regards to landing options, it is currently intended to offer the following options:

  • Landing straight ahead.
  • Circling descent to land into wind.
  • Attempting to land at the nearest rally point, into wind.
    This is obviously dependent upon ensuring reasonable wind direction estimates.

As a part of this project I will be asking the community for support in the form of providing me with data from successfully flown autorotations. I will be posting up the details of what I am looking for in the next few days.

So that’s the project in a nut shell. Let me know what you think!

Many thanks,

Matt

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Gimbal tracking and alignment

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@Vince_Hogg wrote:

Finally got my Cube talking to the SimpleBGC and can move it around with ‘point camera here’
Few questions. Once the FC has control of the gimbal it seems it no longer applies movement limits. As my gimbal is not 360 I dont want it to try to point behind and stretch the wires. How do I stop this? Ideally the frame (copter) would yaw and keep the gimbal angles within limits.
If the camera is consistently slightly off target, how I adjust this please?

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Gps issue (automode)

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